It always begins the same way. The doorbell rings. You open the door to find a gleaming Diwali gift box shimmering gold paper, a big red bow, maybe even a little card that says "With love and light." ...

PUNE: Somewhere in India right now, a box of soan papdi is being passed from one house to another. The flaky, square sweet that was once a humble festive indulgence has become a national inside joke.